Sunday, July 29, 2012

Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row

By Paige Donner

Article first published as Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row on Technorati.

Nestled in the sleepy, gentile hillsides of Épernay, France you will find the House of Champagne Charles Mignon. One of the last remaining fully family-owned and run champagne houses in France, this medium-sized producer issues about 100,000 cases or approximately 1.2 million bottles a year. The house, now in its 3rd generation of family ownership/stewardship, has been a member of the Union des Maisons de Champagne since 2003. Its wines have been listed in the Guide Hachette since 1999.

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In other words, Champagne Charles Mignon is one of the purest types of champagne money can buy and even its philosophy of winemaking, of not aging the juice in wood because, “like a beautiful woman, it doesn’t need any make up,” is a philosophy of purity and elegance. The grapes they use are the traditional blends of Chardonnay, mostly from Chouilly, Pinot Noir, predominantly from Bouzy, and their Pinot Meunier from Hautvillers and Damery for its fresh, fruity elements.

MORE PICS ON Chérie Du Vin ♥  - You Will Love My Wine Picks!

So when I recently came across the announcement from Luxury Group Billionaires Row that they were releasing their own champagne, Billionaires Row Champagne, and that what was in their bottles is Charles Mignon Champagne’s Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, I had to find out more.

First of all, Billionaires Row defines itself as: “a premier luxury lifestyle company,” that “serves as the definitive authority on connoisseurship”...okay, I can get that pairing. It also explains why they would have chosen such a prestige cuvée, one that is aged a minimum of 4 years in the house’s Épernay cellars and one that is produced in quantities of 20,000 bottles per year - only.

The Charles Mignon Cuvées Comte de Marne are made from the top 15% of the best, or “noblest,” of the harvests’ grapes. When they bottle it, such as for their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru and their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime, as well as the Rosé Grand Cru, they do so in a unique reproduction of 18th century antique bottles.

For the Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru, expect floral notes of acacia on the nose, followed by dried fruits, almonds. This complex bouquet is echoed by the mouth where you find the subtle enhancement of delicate tastes of candied fruits. This beautiful crown jewel of the Charles Mignon champagnes suits occasions such as weddings, receptions, and any events where foie gras might be served on little pieces of triangled toasts.

The Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, the one you can now find as well with the BR label on it, is a harmonious subtle salmon rosé that it is perfect as aperitif or paired with molten chocolate cake. Its nose of light rose floral notes and its very fine bubbles give way to delicate flavors of apricot and hazelnuts and a long ample finish with an ever so slight spiciness.

Their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime was made only in the years of 2000, 2004 and 2008 thus far. The 2004 vintage is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, aged for 5 years in the family’s Épernay cellars.

The family Mignon started out in the Champagne region as growers of grapes. It is only since 1995 that the current progeny/ owners have been bottling their own champagnes. Their champagnes are sold today in over 40 countries worldwide, including the U.S., the U.K. and Japan. 

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Wednesday, July 18, 2012

OenoPass Champagne France

by Paige Donner

Article first published as OenoPass Champagne France on Technorati.

Just launched last week by France’s Champagne region is the wine tourist friendly OenoPass. Think of it as an amusement park pass that you pre-pay where the attractions are picturesque champagne houses and working wineries as well as Champagne cultural points of interest.

From now until the end of 2012, the OenoPass is also a great bargain. For 50Euros (instead of the regular price of 100Euros) you get 10 ticket coupons which allow you entry, most of them accompanied by a champagne tasting, into all ten participating partner venues.

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The idea is at once simple and ingenious. It is best adapted to wine tourists who have a vehicle or access to a vehicle but it’s not essential to have a car. The 10 participating properties such as Champagne de Castellane in Épernay, Cristallerie Royale de Champagne et Musée du cristal in Bayel and the Drappier Champagne Estate in Urville are all along the formal “Route du Champagne” or the beautiful country road route that takes you through the verdant sloping vineyard hillsides of the Champagne Region (known in France as Champagne-Ardenne).

You can also go in for the 5 coupon ticket OenoPass which, too, is good for a whole year from the date of purchase. It normally will sell for 50Euros but until the end of 2012 you can get it for the introductory price of 25Euros. Most cellar visits and tastings in Champagne are priced from about 15Euros each and up so this offers a good incentive and way to do your champagne explorations.

 

PARTNERS

Other partner wineries and cultural venues participating in the OenoPass for this launch phase are Champagne G.H. Mumm located in Reims, Domaine Pommery and their sister property, Demoiselle, also both located in Reims, as well as Le Phare which is an old lighthouse that an eccentric businessman, Joseph Goulet, built in 1909 in the middle of champagne vineyards in Verzenay to promote his champagne. It ended up being quite the attraction back in the day, then it was abandoned during the war years, but has once again been restored and resurrected as a modern museum paying tribute to the history and techniques of champagne with state-of-the-art audiovisual installations. English is spoken there and at all ten of the partner venues.

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As you are touring around this elegant region’s champagne routes, vineyards and estates, be sure to stop for some regional delicacies such as the ham from Reims or “jambon de Reims” which is triple boiled and very tender - the legendary Café du Palais in Reims city center serves a generous slice of it accompanied by Langres cheese. Also further down south French foodies never pass up the opportunity to pick up some Andouillette AAAAA from Troyes. And, of course, there is the emblematic “biscuits rose” or pink cookies dusted with powdered sugar that so perfectly accompany a glass of rosé or blanc de blanc champagne.

Photos c. by Paige Donner 

@LocalFoodAndWine

 

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

De Vinis Illustribus

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by Paige Donner

Tucked practically underneath Paris's Pantheon is the 17th c. cellar and mythical wine shop, De Vinis Illustribus.  When current owners, husband and wife Lionel and Dominique Michelin, took over the cellars in 1994 from the legendary Jean-Baptiste Besse, a wine lover and connoisseur who welcomed the likes of Papa Hemingway to his shop back in the day, it looked nothing like it does now.

Read my Review on BlackBook City Guides HERE

From the street entrance you are greeted with a light and airy, water-blasted original stone interior that dates to the 17th c. This is the shop and the welcoming area where the Michelins have forged an impeccable reputation for advising clients on birthday and special occasion wine purchases. For example, if your son or daughter was born in 1972 they will tell  you that a "Bourgogne is more appropriate than a Bordeaux." And if you were  married in 2009, they can advise you on the best Côte du Rhônes to buy and cellar now so you can enjoy for your 10  or even 15 and 20 year anniversaries. 

De Viris Illustribus Urbis Romae was a book written in 1779 by abbot Lhomond to teach about famous men from Rome. De Vinis Illustribus is a play on words and means Famous or Great Wines.

The real treasures are downstairs in the truly ancient cellar. Pictures of what it looked like when Besse was still the owner can only be described as a  cobwebbed and dusty Ali Baba's cave. Today it is still a treasure trove of legendary wines - though much more organized and well-lit - that we rarely get to see physically: 1955 Chateau d'Yquem,  1929 Corton "Clos du Roy", an 1811 Fine Champagne Imperiale Cognac. The list is quite extensive.

Mr. Michelin has an impressive collection of Sauternes, an AOC he particularly enjoys. Their cellar is dominated by French wines and mostly of the regions Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Rhône, Loire and Alsace. Though Champagne is also represented and you can find a few bottles from Porto, too. Prices range from 13€ to into the thousands.

Another specialty of De Vinis Illustribus is their wine tastings [More Pics on Local Food And Wine].  You can join in on a wine tasting or book your own group. You can read more about these by Keiko, a fellow blogger who also attended a recent wine tasting there who writes in both Japanese and French. These are some of the popular choices:

Discovering French Regions: 3 wines, 1 White Burgundy, 1 Red Bordeaux, and 1 Red Côtes du Rhône. Accompanied by aged Comté cheese. 50€ pp

Tour de France of the Vineyards: Tasting Lunch. 4 Wines, 1 Burgundy, 1 Bordeaux, 1  Côtes du Rhône, and 1 Loire. Served with fine cooked meats, cheese and pastries. 105€pp.

Great French Wines Over Time: Tasting Dinner. 5 great wines including 1 old vintage with hot meal courses. From 255€ pp.

Reservations required.

De Vinis Illustribus, 48 rue de la Montagne-Saint-Geneviève Paris 75005  devinis.fr

 

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Ciel de Paris

by Paige Donner

From about the end of the 1910s to the 1940s Montparnasse was the neighborhood that claimed the title, Place To Be. It's where Hemingway had been hanging out the most when he wrote his friend that letter saying, "...Paris is a moveable feast." *[Full quote here]. 

With the recent re-opening of the 56th Floor Ciel de Paris in the Tour Montparnasse, it is once again the place in Paris To Be.  [PICS HERE]

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Christophe Marchais is still the chef here, having done his Ducasse time in Las Vegas years ago as well as time in Monaco, so the cuisine is consistently as fabulous as it always has been. His methods are to use fresh French produce and choose among "noble ingredients" for the creative flair: truffles, lobster, caviar, fois gras, turbot. Though for the re-opening as of June 2012, he and his Chef Patissier, Baptiste Methivier, added innovative upgrades of a tea-time Bar Millefeuille which features 3 sweet and 3 savory choices each day. A perfect light meal to enjoy with your glass of Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines at the bar with the city's best view over Paris and the highest point in Europe.

I've written about the best champagne bars of Paris for BlackBook and if this one had been open yet after its complete interior overhaul, it would have made it to the top of the list. Not least because it's one of the only champagne bars in town where you can order a tasting flight of different champagnes, blanc de blancs no less. Look for this on the menu: Dégustation des Blanc de Blancs 22 € (Ruinart, Nicolas Feuillatte, Canard Duchêne).

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Another overhaul that Elior, the parent group of the restaurant, has done with the menu is offered a quick lunch for people arriving at the next door Montparnasse Train Station (departure for Bordeaux) where for 38€ you have appetizer, main course and dessert. That's gastronomic quality fare at dizzying heights over one of the prettiest cities in the world in modern chic art deco reminiscent décor - all for less than $50 per person. It's the deal of the decade. Signature dish is Lobster soup flavoured with sea urchin stock.

Notes on the décor: all half-tones of ambers and caramel done in sleek lines that feel like 21st century take on Art Deco. Credit goes to Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance who used the thematic of "sparkling" to season his choices. Fall in love with the ceiling lighting, big flat, LED back-lit circles that have you thinking of champagne bubbles and indeed make you feel like you're floating in a flute of champagne, suspended from the sky, 56 storeys above Paris. 

Guess who else used to haunt Montparnasse in her day? Anäis Nin... but we'll leave that for the bedside recommended reading after you've dined at Ciel de Paris.

Tour Montparnasse, 56th Floor, 33 Avenue Maine 75015 Paris

+33-01-40-64-77-64   CieldeParis.com

Local Food And Wine

 

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Moët & Chandon Trianon Gardens

Just across the street from the famous Moët & Chandon cellars in Champagne, France are their exquisite gardens. Only open to private visitors, or once a year to public visitors during the Fetes des Jardins, the grounds are aptly named after Marie-Antoinette's famous personal palace at Versailles, Trianon. The proper name is the résidence de Trianon and the jardins de l'orangerie.

Manicured grounds with remarkable palm trees, exquisite lemon trees and ripe rosé pink rose bushes, this year's artistic exhibit in the Orangerie at the far end of the grounds features photos of gardens throughout recent history. Gardens in pictures from Paris's Luxembourg gardens to flowered grounds in other regions of France and abroad as far away as the U.S.

I was inspired so here is my humble offering to photographic historical record...Click HERE for Full SLIDESHOW

All photos © Paige Donner 2012

 

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Thursday, May 31, 2012

Centre Vinicole Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte

by Paige Donner

A few interesting facts set the champagne brand of Nicolas Feuillatte apart from the others.

For one, it's a champagne house that is cooperatively owned. Just outside of the champagne capital of Épernay in France, in the little village of Chouilly, the modern and sleek facilities whose cellars are both above and beneath the ground, ferment, disgorge and age 300,000 hectoliters of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Petit Meunier destined to become top-selling champagne every year. That translates into 21.9 million bottles of champagne in 2011.

CLICK HERE FOR SLIDESHOW

The house doesn't actually own any vineyards, however. Those are all owned by the growers. They get privileges for being part of the vast co-operative, the growers do. Privileges such as use of state-of-the-art bottling and riddling machines for example, when they have enough leftover from their growing season and harvests to offer a limited supply under their own champagne label - if they so choose.

It's one of the most, if not the most, successful "cave co-operatives" in the wine industry in France. The numbers are impressive:

  • 5,000 growers (that comprise the Producers Union)
  • 82 smaller cooperatives (who form the larger NF brand)
  • 350 wine presses
  • 21.9 million bottles produced in 2011

And what's more, Nicolas Feuillatte is a real person. Still alive and kicking today.

It was in the early 70's when he inherited 10ha of champagne vineyards. After a few years' harvests and a successful brand launching, notably in the U.S. among the jet-set and the glitterati, he accepted the offer of the union of growers to lend his brand to their champagnes. It was, quite evidently, a match made in heaven.

Recommend: If you get the chance, try the 1996 vintage Brut. Elegant, generous, laced with a refined minerality.

All photos c. 2012 Paige Donner

YOU WILL LOVE MY WINEPICKS! - ♥CHÉRIE DU VIN

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Monday, May 28, 2012

Wine Evenings at Restaurant 114 Faubourg St. Honore

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By Paige Donner

Read More Here

At the epicenter of chic, where rue Fbg. St. Honoré meets Avenue Matignon in the shade of Paris's Élysée gardens, is where you will find the restaurant 114 Faubourg. 
As part of Le Bristol Hotel, but with a separate entrance and in an adjoining building, the lunch and dinner restaurant headed up by chef Eric Desbordes along with his chief Sommelier, Marco Pelletier, is altogether a destination unto itself.

Tomes can and likely will be written about the talented young chef's French cuisine, but focus here is on the restaurant's once-monthly Wine Tasting Evenings, held the first Monday of the month, to be precise.

In a city that gathers the best wines of one of the best wine-producing countries in the world, there is an unexpected and surprising dearth of good wine-tasting evenings organized for the amateur/enthusiast and/or the visiting tourist. A once-monthly excellent wine and tailored food-pairing evening open to 25 guests is hardly going to make a dent in what should be a huge demand for this type of food and wine evening event, but, at least it's a start...


Marco Pelletier, an adoptive Parisian whose authentic Canadianisms pepper his oenological descriptions and explanations, shines as the evening's champion organizer. He not only invites the winemakers to Paris so they can talk about their "treasures," but also curates his wines with that delicate care that only a professional with great passion and reverence for his metier can muster.

Evenings start at around 7:30 with a tasting flight of four wines during which the winemaker shares tales about the vintages he's pouring. The 114 Faubourg team takes care of hosting duties, which allows these extraordinary cultivators of French wines to simply elaborate the stories of their wines in the company of the people who have come to sip and savor their particular expressions of terroir.

According to Pelletier, there is no commercial element to the evening. The winemakers are not honored guests invited to “sell” their wines. "They just come to share the story behind the wines and vintages being poured for the evening. The winemakers are often small producers that I've usually already chosen to feature and work with or who have already worked with Le Bristol for a long time," explains Pelletier. "These are the 'Haute Couture' of winegrowers."

Read more: http://technorati.com/lifestyle/travel/article/wine-evenings-at-restaurant-114-rue/#ixzz1w6g4Kbg5