California Wine Month - September

Join the California Wine Institute and Girl Meets Grape at The Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills on Thursday, September 6th from 6-9 pm and taste your way around the state (70+ wineries! - see below) as we kick off California Wine Month 2012.

More Info: http://discovercaliforniawines.com/californiawinemonth

Valet parking is included with ticket price and tickets are extremely limited. Do not miss this opportunity to celebrate California wine without leaving LA!

Heitz  -  Ovid  -  Baldacci  -  Trefethen  -  Viader  -  Kenefick Ranch  -  Kenwood Vineyards  -  Wrath - Bernardus  -  Pianetta  -  J.  Lohr  -  Noble Vines  -  Ventana Vineyards  -  McCay Cellars  -  Machhia - Borra Vineyards  -  Talley  -  Saucelito Canyon  -  Laetitia  -  Ancient Peaks  -  Tangent  -  Zocker - Santa Cruz Mountain  -  Cooper-Garrod  -  Bargetto  -  Beauregard Vineyards  -  Silver Mountain  -  Woodside - Villa Creek  -  Adelaida  -  Eberle  -  Hope Family  -  Justin  -  Tablas Creek  -  Villa Creek  -  Brewer-Clifton - Foxen  -  Margerum  -  Buttonwood Farm  -  Grassini Family  -  Riverbench Vineyard & Winery  -  Balletto - Davis Bynum  -  Alexander Valley Vineyards  -  Chateau St Jean  -  Landmark  -  Quivara  -  Etude - J Vineyards and Winery  -  The Lucas Winery  -  Heritage Oak Winery  -  Michael David Winery - St. Amant Winery  -  Joel Gott  -  Rosa d’Oro  -  Six Sigma  -  The Steven Kent Winery  -  Mitchell Katz - Wente  -  Cedar Mountain  -  Concannon Winery  -  Fenestra Winery  -  Baily  -  Palumbo Family - Monte de Oro  -  Robert Renzoni  -  South Coast  -  Wilson Creek  -  Bonterra  -  Beringer Vineyards - Robert Mondavi Winery

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Maison J. De Telmont Champagne

by Paige Donner

The J. De Telmont House of Champagne located in Damery, France counts itself among the major twenty champagne houses of the region. Considering the players who are on that team, this is no small accomplishment for a family-owned and still family-run Champagne House.

 

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J. De Telmont is currently overseen by Bertrand Lhopital, the fourth generation since his great-grandfather, Henri Lhopital, began to elaborate his own champagnes as one of the first growers of the region to gain Recoltant-Manipulant (grower-producer) status when this title was first created in the region. Bertrand is joined by his sister Pascale and his brother-in-law, Philippe, in the running of the vineyards, the vinification, the export and the myriad other tasks that are involved in the successful operations of a champagne house.

The actual brand name J. De Telmont, was established by the second generation of the family Lhopital to run the business. It was during the time when the house was expanding and purchasing strategic vineyard plots, many of which were, and are still, on Grand Cru designated terroir. The name "Lhopital," traditionally evoked the original meaning of "hospitality" or "welcoming" but when it became synonymous with the modern day meaning of "hospital," they decided to create a brand name more evocative of what the champagne house stood for and what their champagnes represent.

Le Grand Rosé

This NV Brut is a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir of which 15% of that is reserve wine. The light raspberry pink color with salmon reflections is derived from partial maceration, not a blend, which lends subtlety and a long finish to this fresh and fruity exceptional rosé.

Cuvée Grand Couronnement

Only first pressing juice is used from the choicest grape selection from the Grand Cru de la Côte des Blancs, which is to say the best of the best of Chardonnay Champagne grapes. And did I mention it's made only in the best harvest years and aged until it's at its height of perfection? The house itself describes it thus:  An exceptional vintage that "crowns" our production... It is reserved for only the most dedicated connoisseurs.

 

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Route du Champagne

by Paige Donner
Article first published as Route du Champagne on Technorati.

Every year for a weekend in summer, champagne houses in the Côte des Bar open their doors and welcome visitors for champagne tastings, cellar visits, art exhibits and live music acts.

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The catch? Get this - not only is there NO catch, but to drink your fill of fine French champagne straight from the vineyards costs you a whopping 15 Euros - TOTAL.

Yep. Nope. Not a misprint. Each year a certain part of the Côte des Bar, which is the champagne growing-producing region closest to Troyes, the southernmost major town in the region of Champagne, France, swing open their doors for an entire weekend of festivities. During the weekend of La Route du Champagne they welcome tens of thousands of visitors to taste their champagnes and enjoy the exquisite Côte des Bar landscape. They even elect a Miss Champagne, a young maiden from one of the nearby villages, to officiate at some of the tastings.

To participate in the tastings along the Route du Champagne you must purchase the specially designated champagne flute glass, this year printed with the “La Route du Champagne en Fete! 2012” slogan. That flute of champagne costs you 15 Euros. Once. And with that, this year, you had over 20 champagne houses and producers and even a Champagne Château - Château de Bligny - where you could get your fill of champagne. Of course, proper etiquette means that you either spit or designate a driver. But with all the impressive art exhibits, the festive decorations along these pictoral and picturesque small country roads and the live music - well, this weekend of champagne tasting was more like a celebration of summer and bubbly all wrapped into one.

One of the most surprising things about this Bar-sur-Aube region of Champagne, indeed the entire Aube region, is how different it is in terms of landscape from even the other counties in Champagne. The history of the region is that its gently sloping hills and graceful terrain was first tamed by monks, Cistercian monks to be exact. The most famous of which, in terms of champagne, was St. Bernard de Clairvaux who died in 1153. There are references all over the region to this monk who is just as famous here as Dom Perignon is in other parts of Champagne. Local legend has it that it was this Cistercian influence that rendered such a manicured and tapestried look to the rolling hillsides of Pinot Noir (dominant) and Chardonnay dotted by peacefully grazing sheep and cows.

If you want more history on the region, go to www.aube-champagne.com which is the regional tourist information site. Since this year’s weekend of La Route du Champagne is now fini, start planning for next year’s which will take place the weekend of July 27th, 28th and will focus on the Celles sur Ource geographical area of the Côte des Bar. For more information click on routeduchampagne.com. It’s best to make your plans in advance, as though this weekend may not be well-known to American or Canadian tourists, it is famous among the Europeans who are within driving distance - Belgians, Germans, Swiss - and word has it they plan their summer vacations around this weekend on their way south. Can you blame them? Many of the champagnes available during the weekend can be purchased for anywhere from 13 - 30 Euro per bottle from the producers directly. And this is where you can get those hard-to-find explosively fresh Blanc de Noir champagnes.

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Philipponnat Champagne's Clos des Goisses

by Paige Donner
First published as Philipponnat Champagne's Clos des Goisses on Technorati.
Very few families, even in France’s historic Champagne region, can date their ancestral roots in the region as far back as 500 years. The family of Philipponnat, namesake of the champagne, is one of these rarities. Not only are they still in the region where their ancestors settled in 1522, they are still in the small village of Mareuil-sur-Ay. It’s also how they came up with their prestige cuvées name “1522.” A few vinification traditions this house respects that have great bearing on their champagnes:

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• Philipponnat uses only the first press juice for vinification
• Moderate dosage
• Mostly Pinot Noir grapes during blending
• Barrel-fermented wines (which is not the total amount of the must) do not undergo malolactic fermentation
• Slightly delayed harvests for their Pinot Noir grapes to achieve optimal maturity

Balance is key. Balance of freshness and acidity are the hallmarks of the house, headed today by Charles Philipponnat who is aided by cellar master Thierry Garnier and vineyard manager Claude Laurent. As many of the best winemakers will tell you, their belief, and practice, is that good oenology means as little manipulation as possible. So their vinification methods are as natural as they can maintain them. During fermentation they keep temperatures “deliberately low.” For the oak barrels they do use, mostly so that specifically designated juice can be in contact with oxygen when aging, they source from Burgundy and choose barrels which are usually 1-2 years old.
Their historic 18th c. cellars, upon which the fairly recent (2002) winery was built in Mareuil- sur-Ay so as to be closer to their crown jewel vineyard, the Clos des Goisses, are actually the historic cellars of the former Château de Mareuil. This means that during harvest, the prime Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes growing in the 5 ½ ha. Clos des Goisses and Le Léon reach the Philipponnat pressoirs within hours and after very little - in some cases less than a kilometer - of transport. Walking past the Clos, you can actually see, from a cutout of the steep hillside, the depth of the famous chalky soils.

As a connoisseur, you can’t go wrong with a Philipponnat champagne. A few tasting highlights follow:
Grand Blanc; 100% Chardonnay, this is made exclusively from the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. It is an exceptional champagne in the Phillipponnat portfolio in that it resembles a Blanc de Blancs and exhibits what the Champenois call a “creamy” texture. Try it with lobster, langoustine, scallops, seafood.
1522 Grand Cru; Blended from the very best of the first press Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) juice. Only a third of the usual Brut dosage for champagne, this one, at 4.5 gr. sugar per liter, is expansive with excellent balance of acidity. This fine-palate champagne can pair with meals of fish and seafood, or, to be slightly daring, a spicy Tandoori chicken dish. It contrasts with the Clos des Goisses cuvee, “by virtue of a pursuit of balance rather than of great power.”
Clos des Goisses, (2002): Always and only a vintage champagne. Low dosage (4 to 5 gr. sugar) and extended maturing under cork stoppers at the constant cellar temp. of 12C/ 54F. Of the potential 55,000 bottles that could be produced of this from the harvest, only 3,000 to a maximum of 40,000 bottles depending on the year, are ever issued. Only the best grapes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, from the exceptional vineyard of Clos des Goisses, are used. Vines are average 25 years and older. “A truly great wine before being a champagne.” Best served with truffles, game, caviar, soft cheeses. The 2002 vintage, disgorged in June 2011, has a length to it during which it reveals to you its chalky terroir roots, its days spent in the sunshine up against the Marne River and the non-malolactic fermentation religiously observed for this wine. French wine critics call this “one of the world’s best wines.” Rightfully so.
All photos © Paige Donner 
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Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row

By Paige Donner

Article first published as Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row on Technorati.

Nestled in the sleepy, gentile hillsides of Épernay, France you will find the House of Champagne Charles Mignon. One of the last remaining fully family-owned and run champagne houses in France, this medium-sized producer issues about 100,000 cases or approximately 1.2 million bottles a year. The house, now in its 3rd generation of family ownership/stewardship, has been a member of the Union des Maisons de Champagne since 2003. Its wines have been listed in the Guide Hachette since 1999.

In other words, Champagne Charles Mignon is one of the purest types of champagne money can buy and even its philosophy of winemaking, of not aging the juice in wood because, “like a beautiful woman, it doesn’t need any make up,” is a philosophy of purity and elegance. The grapes they use are the traditional blends of Chardonnay, mostly from Chouilly, Pinot Noir, predominantly from Bouzy, and their Pinot Meunier from Hautvillers and Damery for its fresh, fruity elements.

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So when I recently came across the announcement from Luxury Group Billionaires Row that they were releasing their own champagne, Billionaires Row Champagne, and that what was in their bottles is Charles Mignon Champagne’s Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, I had to find out more.

First of all, Billionaires Row defines itself as: “a premier luxury lifestyle company,” that “serves as the definitive authority on connoisseurship”...okay, I can get that pairing. It also explains why they would have chosen such a prestige cuvée, one that is aged a minimum of 4 years in the house’s Épernay cellars and one that is produced in quantities of 20,000 bottles per year - only.

The Charles Mignon Cuvées Comte de Marne are made from the top 15% of the best, or “noblest,” of the harvests’ grapes. When they bottle it, such as for their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru and their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime, as well as the Rosé Grand Cru, they do so in a unique reproduction of 18th century antique bottles.

For the Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru, expect floral notes of acacia on the nose, followed by dried fruits, almonds. This complex bouquet is echoed by the mouth where you find the subtle enhancement of delicate tastes of candied fruits. This beautiful crown jewel of the Charles Mignon champagnes suits occasions such as weddings, receptions, and any events where foie gras might be served on little pieces of triangled toasts.

The Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, the one you can now find as well with the BR label on it, is a harmonious subtle salmon rosé that it is perfect as aperitif or paired with molten chocolate cake. Its nose of light rose floral notes and its very fine bubbles give way to delicate flavors of apricot and hazelnuts and a long ample finish with an ever so slight spiciness.

Their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime was made only in the years of 2000, 2004 and 2008 thus far. The 2004 vintage is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, aged for 5 years in the family’s Épernay cellars.

The family Mignon started out in the Champagne region as growers of grapes. It is only since 1995 that the current progeny/ owners have been bottling their own champagnes. Their champagnes are sold today in over 40 countries worldwide, including the U.S., the U.K. and Japan. 

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OenoPass Champagne France

by Paige Donner

Article first published as OenoPass Champagne France on Technorati.

Just launched last week by France’s Champagne region is the wine tourist friendly OenoPass. Think of it as an amusement park pass that you pre-pay where the attractions are picturesque champagne houses and working wineries as well as Champagne cultural points of interest.

From now until the end of 2012, the OenoPass is also a great bargain. For 50Euros (instead of the regular price of 100Euros) you get 10 ticket coupons which allow you entry, most of them accompanied by a champagne tasting, into all ten participating partner venues.

The idea is at once simple and ingenious. It is best adapted to wine tourists who have a vehicle or access to a vehicle but it’s not essential to have a car. The 10 participating properties such as Champagne de Castellane in Épernay, Cristallerie Royale de Champagne et Musée du cristal in Bayel and the Drappier Champagne Estate in Urville are all along the formal “Route du Champagne” or the beautiful country road route that takes you through the verdant sloping vineyard hillsides of the Champagne Region (known in France as Champagne-Ardenne).

You can also go in for the 5 coupon ticket OenoPass which, too, is good for a whole year from the date of purchase. It normally will sell for 50Euros but until the end of 2012 you can get it for the introductory price of 25Euros. Most cellar visits and tastings in Champagne are priced from about 15Euros each and up so this offers a good incentive and way to do your champagne explorations.

 

PARTNERS

Other partner wineries and cultural venues participating in the OenoPass for this launch phase are Champagne G.H. Mumm located in Reims, Domaine Pommery and their sister property, Demoiselle, also both located in Reims, as well as Le Phare which is an old lighthouse that an eccentric businessman, Joseph Goulet, built in 1909 in the middle of champagne vineyards in Verzenay to promote his champagne. It ended up being quite the attraction back in the day, then it was abandoned during the war years, but has once again been restored and resurrected as a modern museum paying tribute to the history and techniques of champagne with state-of-the-art audiovisual installations. English is spoken there and at all ten of the partner venues.

As you are touring around this elegant region’s champagne routes, vineyards and estates, be sure to stop for some regional delicacies such as the ham from Reims or “jambon de Reims” which is triple boiled and very tender - the legendary Café du Palais in Reims city center serves a generous slice of it accompanied by Langres cheese. Also further down south French foodies never pass up the opportunity to pick up some Andouillette AAAAA from Troyes. And, of course, there is the emblematic “biscuits rose” or pink cookies dusted with powdered sugar that so perfectly accompany a glass of rosé or blanc de blanc champagne.

Photos c. by Paige Donner 

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De Vinis Illustribus

by Paige Donner

Tucked practically underneath Paris's Pantheon is the 17th c. cellar and mythical wine shop, De Vinis Illustribus.  When current owners, husband and wife Lionel and Dominique Michelin, took over the cellars in 1994 from the legendary Jean-Baptiste Besse, a wine lover and connoisseur who welcomed the likes of Papa Hemingway to his shop back in the day, it looked nothing like it does now.

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From the street entrance you are greeted with a light and airy, water-blasted original stone interior that dates to the 17th c. This is the shop and the welcoming area where the Michelins have forged an impeccable reputation for advising clients on birthday and special occasion wine purchases. For example, if your son or daughter was born in 1972 they will tell  you that a "Bourgogne is more appropriate than a Bordeaux." And if you were  married in 2009, they can advise you on the best Côte du Rhônes to buy and cellar now so you can enjoy for your 10  or even 15 and 20 year anniversaries. 

De Viris Illustribus Urbis Romae was a book written in 1779 by abbot Lhomond to teach about famous men from Rome. De Vinis Illustribus is a play on words and means Famous or Great Wines.

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The real treasures are downstairs in the truly ancient cellar. Pictures of what it looked like when Besse was still the owner can only be described as a  cobwebbed and dusty Ali Baba's cave. Today it is still a treasure trove of legendary wines - though much more organized and well-lit - that we rarely get to see physically: 1955 Chateau d'Yquem,  1929 Corton "Clos du Roy", an 1811 Fine Champagne Imperiale Cognac. The list is quite extensive.

Mr. Michelin has an impressive collection of Sauternes, an AOC he particularly enjoys. Their cellar is dominated by French wines and mostly of the regions Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Rhône, Loire and Alsace. Though Champagne is also represented and you can find a few bottles from Porto, too. Prices range from 13€ to into the thousands.

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Another specialty of De Vinis Illustribus is their wine tastings [More Pics on Local Food And Wine].  You can join in on a wine tasting or book your own group. You can read more about these by Keiko, a fellow blogger who also attended a recent wine tasting there who writes in both Japanese and French. These are some of the popular choices:

Discovering French Regions: 3 wines, 1 White Burgundy, 1 Red Bordeaux, and 1 Red Côtes du Rhône. Accompanied by aged Comté cheese. 50€ pp

Tour de France of the Vineyards: Tasting Lunch. 4 Wines, 1 Burgundy, 1 Bordeaux, 1  Côtes du Rhône, and 1 Loire. Served with fine cooked meats, cheese and pastries. 105€pp.

Great French Wines Over Time: Tasting Dinner. 5 great wines including 1 old vintage with hot meal courses. From 255€ pp.

Reservations required.

De Vinis Illustribus, 48 rue de la Montagne-Saint-Geneviève Paris 75005  devinis.fr