Philipponnat Champagne's Clos des Goisses

by Paige Donner
First published as Philipponnat Champagne's Clos des Goisses on Technorati.
Very few families, even in France’s historic Champagne region, can date their ancestral roots in the region as far back as 500 years. The family of Philipponnat, namesake of the champagne, is one of these rarities. Not only are they still in the region where their ancestors settled in 1522, they are still in the small village of Mareuil-sur-Ay. It’s also how they came up with their prestige cuvées name “1522.” A few vinification traditions this house respects that have great bearing on their champagnes:

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• Philipponnat uses only the first press juice for vinification
• Moderate dosage
• Mostly Pinot Noir grapes during blending
• Barrel-fermented wines (which is not the total amount of the must) do not undergo malolactic fermentation
• Slightly delayed harvests for their Pinot Noir grapes to achieve optimal maturity

Balance is key. Balance of freshness and acidity are the hallmarks of the house, headed today by Charles Philipponnat who is aided by cellar master Thierry Garnier and vineyard manager Claude Laurent. As many of the best winemakers will tell you, their belief, and practice, is that good oenology means as little manipulation as possible. So their vinification methods are as natural as they can maintain them. During fermentation they keep temperatures “deliberately low.” For the oak barrels they do use, mostly so that specifically designated juice can be in contact with oxygen when aging, they source from Burgundy and choose barrels which are usually 1-2 years old.
Their historic 18th c. cellars, upon which the fairly recent (2002) winery was built in Mareuil- sur-Ay so as to be closer to their crown jewel vineyard, the Clos des Goisses, are actually the historic cellars of the former Château de Mareuil. This means that during harvest, the prime Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes growing in the 5 ½ ha. Clos des Goisses and Le Léon reach the Philipponnat pressoirs within hours and after very little - in some cases less than a kilometer - of transport. Walking past the Clos, you can actually see, from a cutout of the steep hillside, the depth of the famous chalky soils.

As a connoisseur, you can’t go wrong with a Philipponnat champagne. A few tasting highlights follow:
Grand Blanc; 100% Chardonnay, this is made exclusively from the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. It is an exceptional champagne in the Phillipponnat portfolio in that it resembles a Blanc de Blancs and exhibits what the Champenois call a “creamy” texture. Try it with lobster, langoustine, scallops, seafood.
1522 Grand Cru; Blended from the very best of the first press Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) juice. Only a third of the usual Brut dosage for champagne, this one, at 4.5 gr. sugar per liter, is expansive with excellent balance of acidity. This fine-palate champagne can pair with meals of fish and seafood, or, to be slightly daring, a spicy Tandoori chicken dish. It contrasts with the Clos des Goisses cuvee, “by virtue of a pursuit of balance rather than of great power.”
Clos des Goisses, (2002): Always and only a vintage champagne. Low dosage (4 to 5 gr. sugar) and extended maturing under cork stoppers at the constant cellar temp. of 12C/ 54F. Of the potential 55,000 bottles that could be produced of this from the harvest, only 3,000 to a maximum of 40,000 bottles depending on the year, are ever issued. Only the best grapes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, from the exceptional vineyard of Clos des Goisses, are used. Vines are average 25 years and older. “A truly great wine before being a champagne.” Best served with truffles, game, caviar, soft cheeses. The 2002 vintage, disgorged in June 2011, has a length to it during which it reveals to you its chalky terroir roots, its days spent in the sunshine up against the Marne River and the non-malolactic fermentation religiously observed for this wine. French wine critics call this “one of the world’s best wines.” Rightfully so.
All photos © Paige Donner 
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Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row

By Paige Donner

Article first published as Champagne Mignon And Billionaires Row on Technorati.

Nestled in the sleepy, gentile hillsides of Épernay, France you will find the House of Champagne Charles Mignon. One of the last remaining fully family-owned and run champagne houses in France, this medium-sized producer issues about 100,000 cases or approximately 1.2 million bottles a year. The house, now in its 3rd generation of family ownership/stewardship, has been a member of the Union des Maisons de Champagne since 2003. Its wines have been listed in the Guide Hachette since 1999.

In other words, Champagne Charles Mignon is one of the purest types of champagne money can buy and even its philosophy of winemaking, of not aging the juice in wood because, “like a beautiful woman, it doesn’t need any make up,” is a philosophy of purity and elegance. The grapes they use are the traditional blends of Chardonnay, mostly from Chouilly, Pinot Noir, predominantly from Bouzy, and their Pinot Meunier from Hautvillers and Damery for its fresh, fruity elements.

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So when I recently came across the announcement from Luxury Group Billionaires Row that they were releasing their own champagne, Billionaires Row Champagne, and that what was in their bottles is Charles Mignon Champagne’s Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, I had to find out more.

First of all, Billionaires Row defines itself as: “a premier luxury lifestyle company,” that “serves as the definitive authority on connoisseurship”...okay, I can get that pairing. It also explains why they would have chosen such a prestige cuvée, one that is aged a minimum of 4 years in the house’s Épernay cellars and one that is produced in quantities of 20,000 bottles per year - only.

The Charles Mignon Cuvées Comte de Marne are made from the top 15% of the best, or “noblest,” of the harvests’ grapes. When they bottle it, such as for their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru and their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime, as well as the Rosé Grand Cru, they do so in a unique reproduction of 18th century antique bottles.

For the Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru, expect floral notes of acacia on the nose, followed by dried fruits, almonds. This complex bouquet is echoed by the mouth where you find the subtle enhancement of delicate tastes of candied fruits. This beautiful crown jewel of the Charles Mignon champagnes suits occasions such as weddings, receptions, and any events where foie gras might be served on little pieces of triangled toasts.

The Cuvée Comte de Marne Rosé Grand Cru, the one you can now find as well with the BR label on it, is a harmonious subtle salmon rosé that it is perfect as aperitif or paired with molten chocolate cake. Its nose of light rose floral notes and its very fine bubbles give way to delicate flavors of apricot and hazelnuts and a long ample finish with an ever so slight spiciness.

Their Cuvée Comte de Marne Brut Grand Cru Millésime was made only in the years of 2000, 2004 and 2008 thus far. The 2004 vintage is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, aged for 5 years in the family’s Épernay cellars.

The family Mignon started out in the Champagne region as growers of grapes. It is only since 1995 that the current progeny/ owners have been bottling their own champagnes. Their champagnes are sold today in over 40 countries worldwide, including the U.S., the U.K. and Japan. 

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OenoPass Champagne France

by Paige Donner

Article first published as OenoPass Champagne France on Technorati.

Just launched last week by France’s Champagne region is the wine tourist friendly OenoPass. Think of it as an amusement park pass that you pre-pay where the attractions are picturesque champagne houses and working wineries as well as Champagne cultural points of interest.

From now until the end of 2012, the OenoPass is also a great bargain. For 50Euros (instead of the regular price of 100Euros) you get 10 ticket coupons which allow you entry, most of them accompanied by a champagne tasting, into all ten participating partner venues.

The idea is at once simple and ingenious. It is best adapted to wine tourists who have a vehicle or access to a vehicle but it’s not essential to have a car. The 10 participating properties such as Champagne de Castellane in Épernay, Cristallerie Royale de Champagne et Musée du cristal in Bayel and the Drappier Champagne Estate in Urville are all along the formal “Route du Champagne” or the beautiful country road route that takes you through the verdant sloping vineyard hillsides of the Champagne Region (known in France as Champagne-Ardenne).

You can also go in for the 5 coupon ticket OenoPass which, too, is good for a whole year from the date of purchase. It normally will sell for 50Euros but until the end of 2012 you can get it for the introductory price of 25Euros. Most cellar visits and tastings in Champagne are priced from about 15Euros each and up so this offers a good incentive and way to do your champagne explorations.

 

PARTNERS

Other partner wineries and cultural venues participating in the OenoPass for this launch phase are Champagne G.H. Mumm located in Reims, Domaine Pommery and their sister property, Demoiselle, also both located in Reims, as well as Le Phare which is an old lighthouse that an eccentric businessman, Joseph Goulet, built in 1909 in the middle of champagne vineyards in Verzenay to promote his champagne. It ended up being quite the attraction back in the day, then it was abandoned during the war years, but has once again been restored and resurrected as a modern museum paying tribute to the history and techniques of champagne with state-of-the-art audiovisual installations. English is spoken there and at all ten of the partner venues.

As you are touring around this elegant region’s champagne routes, vineyards and estates, be sure to stop for some regional delicacies such as the ham from Reims or “jambon de Reims” which is triple boiled and very tender - the legendary Café du Palais in Reims city center serves a generous slice of it accompanied by Langres cheese. Also further down south French foodies never pass up the opportunity to pick up some Andouillette AAAAA from Troyes. And, of course, there is the emblematic “biscuits rose” or pink cookies dusted with powdered sugar that so perfectly accompany a glass of rosé or blanc de blanc champagne.

Photos c. by Paige Donner 

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